Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna
CPC invaded Zarella on Tueday, July 16, 2025.
Zarella doesn't need any more hype. Between the picture perfect pies and the Boka PR machine and the downtown location, it's packed every night and probably will be for a while. But the question we needed to answer is whether it should be. The shorter answer: Everything is delicious so sure, why not. The slightly longer answer: If you live downtown or have out of town guests staying in a downtown hotel who don't want to travel far, you can go here and have an excellent meal with great service. But, and maybe I was biased because I went in knowing this was a Boka restaurant and not the more appealing story of some longtime pizza obsessive finally getting to do their thing or a multi-generation family business, but there's something sterile about the whole experience that left me thinking there's a pretty good chance I won't go back. But but: I've already recommended this place to a couple of people.
The three biggest pizza trends going these days have to be Midwestern thin aka Chicago thin aka tavern; so-called "artisanal pizza;" and Detroit style. One Detroit pizza goes a long way so it's not going to be as big of a profit center as the other two styles and Boka knows how to make money. And that, I suspect, is why they've skipped Detroit style and focused on the other two.
This isn't the best artisanal pizza around - Great Lake (welcome back!), Middle Brow, and a few others are better. And it's not the best tavern style around - Pat's, Vito & Nick's, Villa Nova, and several others are better. But Zarella does a very good job of both and not a lot of places can make that claim.
The "artisanal" pizza is a picture perfect pizza. Nice crisp and chewy crusts and good ingredients. Even the basic margherita, which we never get, was delicious. The prettier pizza is one of their signature pies - Soppressata & Mortadella with Calabrian chili honey and arugula. The crust might not have had the same depth of flavor of some of the best spots in town, but honestly, I'm probably overselling the "flaw." Really good stuff.
The tavern looks and tastes like Boka hired a consultant who read that NY Times article that made the rounds a couple years ago. But here's the thing - while a lot of the grand pronouncements in that article were bullshit. it got a lot right and this whole cold cured crust, sauce to the edges, and high quality ingredients is a great formula and Boka executes it well. They probably could have used more sauce, but that's more because they were generous with the toppings a little more sauce would have balanced things out a bit. The pics: Top pizza is pepperoni and mushroom, second pizza is sausage and mushroom, and the bottom one is pepperoni, garlic and onion. Everything about these pizzas was very good to great.
A couple of notes on service. As mentioned earlier, this is a Boka Group restaurant and those mofos, whose many accolades include the 2019 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurateur, know what they're doing. Service was great throughout. They did mess up one pizza (we didn't order the pepperoni and mushroom), let us keep the mistake, and promptly brought the right one. One cool feature is rather than cluttering up your table with your leftovers, they give you a claim check and then you pick up your pizza when you're on your way out of the restaurant. One thing to look out for. These have a little block on the table with a QR code to pay your bill. If you go that route, there's an extra $4 platform fee. Fuck that shit. Ask your server for a bill the old fashioned way and you don't have to pay the $4.